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Friday, October 30, 2009

MYVI VS VIVA Perodua Myvi and Perodua Viva




Many of you would have watched the new advertisement by Perodua several days ago. Perodua is releasing a new version to replace their older models of Kelisa and Kancil. Rumor has it that the new Perodua D18B would be named Perodua Viva. How big is it? how fast it would go? which design it would take? how much will it cost? how many kilometers per liter? and so on..

The questions that emerges regarding Perodua Viva would be infinite.

Perodua Viva's Pros againts Perodua Myvi
1. Interior lenght would be slightly longer
2. Fuel consumption is better (17.4km/l)
3. Cheaper (of course). (*rumor* 1.0HG is RM38k)
4. Bigger brake lights (guess would be something like Kenari)

Perodua Viva's Cons againts Perodua Myvi
1. Interior width is slightly less wide
2. 660cc and 850cc version might be underpower
3. Design-wise, less attractive (but beauty is in the eyes of the beholder)
4. Possibility of cost reduction parts?
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Tuesday, October 27, 2009

Malaysian cars better built this year

The numbers speak for themselves - according to the results of J.D. Power's Asia Pacific 2009 Malaysia Initial Quality Study (IQS), the overall new-vehicle initial quality in Malaysia has markedly improved from 2008.

The study, now in its seventh year, examines new-vehicle quality during the first two to six months of ownership.

The study measures more than 200 problem symptoms covering eight vehicle components: vehicle exterior; driving experience; features/controls/displays; audio/entertainment/navigation; seats; HVAC; vehicle interior; and engine/transmission.

All problems are summarised as the number of problems reported per 100 vehicles (PP100), and lower scores indicate a lower rate of problem incidences and higher performance. The study was based on responses from 2,874 new-vehicle owners who purchased their vehicle between Sept 2008 and May 2009, with 52 passenger car, pickup and utility vehicle models from across 15 brands evaluated.

The Malaysian average was 136 in 2009, improving by 22 from 2008, and all eight component areas showed improvement levels. Vehicle exterior issues and problems related to the driving experience represent nearly 50% of total reported problems.

In terms of specific models by segment, the Perodua Myvi ranks highest in the compact car segment for a third consecutive year with 127 PP100, followed by the Proton Savvy (154) and the Perodua Viva (186).

Meanwhile, the new Honda City ranks highest in the entry mid-size car segment, with 76 PP100. Second in the category is the Toyota Vios (107), with the Proton Saga (158) placed third.

In the mid-size car segment, the Toyota Corolla Altis takes the honours with 80 PP100, followed by the Honda Civic (103) and the Nissan Sylphy (109).

As for the MPV/van segment, Toyota's Innova takes the top spot for a second consecutive year, with a score of 85 PP100, with the Nissan Grand Livina (89) and the Toyota Avanza (100) making up the top trio.

In the pickup segment, the Isuzu D-max ranks highest with a 66 PP100 rating, well ahead of the Toyota Hilux (94) and the Mitsubishi Triton (101).

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Monday, October 26, 2009

Myvi “Exclusive Edition” – showroom pix

Perodua has just launched the Myvi 1.3 Exclusive Edition which is now available for booking. We have visited an official distributor in Jalan Manis, Taman Segar Cheras and snapped away some images which can be found after the jump.







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Friday, October 16, 2009

Perodua Viva Elite Pictures, Specs & Price

According to Kereta Dot Info, the new facelift of Perodua Viva will hit the showroom on the 25th of Jult 2009. The price of the car is between RM37,500 to RM44,900 and come out with 3 variants, which are 2 standards & 1 premium.

new-viva-elite.JPG

Here are some of the information which may be useful for the potential Viva Elite owners:

*

1000 cc AUTO & MANUAL VERSION
*

NEW FACE LIFT
*

SOLID COLOR
*

FOG LAMP
*

REAR REFLECTOR
*

UV PROTECTED GLASS
*

POWER STEERING
*

ALARM SYSTEM
*

CHROME DOOR HANDLE
*

CENTRAL LOCK
*

4 POWER WINDOW
*

REAR WIPER
*

SIDE MIRROR WITH ELECTRIC REMOTE CONTROL
*

BODY COLOR DOOR MIRROR HOUSING
*

REAR SPOILER
*

FRONT AND REAR SKIRTING
*

RADIO WITH MP3 CD PLAYER & BLUETOOTH FUNCTION
*

FRONT AND REAR BUMPER WITH BODY COLOR
*

14″ SPORT RIMS
*

REVERSE SENSOR
*

FRONT AND REAR SPEAKER
*

SRS airbags
*

ABS(with EBD & BA)
*

UV reflector glass
*

NEW aloy rim
*

ELECTRONIC SIDE MIRROR ADJUSTER
*

NEW BLUE COLOUR
*

NEW SEAT DESIGN

Here are some of the pictures:

viva-elite.JPG

perodua-viva-elite.JPG

perodua-viva-elite-10.JPG

new-perodua-viva.JPG

#please tell me if u can't see the pic.
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Wheel and Tyre Fitting Check List

Wheel and Tyre Fitting Check List

Before fitting tyres on aftermarket wheels check:
Fire1. that the stud/bolt hole pattern is correct.

2. that the wheel fits freely onto the hub without interference and that there are no screws, rivets or retaining clips which may interfere with a firm, flat location of the hub against the wheel mounting face.

3. that the wheel rotates freely and truly on both front and ear hubs

4. when fastened to the hub, that no part of the wheel can make contact with the brake drums or calipers or any other part of the steering or suspensionCheck nuts and bolts. Correct fitting is vital. Be sure1. that the thread form is correct (fit nuts without wheels).2. that the nut/bolt seating is correct.3. that the stud length is adequate for minimum thread penetration of approximately 1 x stud diameter and not too long as to permit "bottoming" of the stud in the nut.4. that the threads are rust free and not over-lubricated5. when sleeve nuts are used, that the shank diameter is correct and that the bearing washers are always used.When fitting the tyre
1. make sure that the rim size is compatible with tyre size.

2. be wary of scratching the protective lacquer coating (on aluminium wheels and some chrome wheels). Aluminium corrodes very easily once exposed to atmosphere, water or chemicals.

3. where possible always use the adhesive type of balance weight, as these help to avoid scratching of the wheel finish.

Meshindo

Finally Check

1. that the wheel and tyre assembly does not contact any part of the suspension or body work by carrying out full 'bump' and lock to lock tests before driving the vehicle away from the fitting bay.Do not take risks. Wheel security is vital. Check with experts if you have any doubt.

(Editorial supplied courtesy of Wheelwright Ltd)

Torqueing Nuts

If people give little consideration to their tyres, apart from price, then how much less attention do they give to their wheel nuts/bolts? Most people will just be happy if their wheel nuts are tight enough to keep the wheel on the car - and those nuts simple cannot be over-tight, can they?

Well, yes they can.

The issue of a loose wheel nut is pretty self- evident. If one wheel nut on a set is loose, then it puts additional strain on the remaining wheel nuts. Now, for some reason, that additional strain only very rarely causes a wheel nut to tighten itself. It usually results in a loosening. For most drivers that becomes a very obvious danger as the loose wheel vibrating on the hub transmits that vibration and possibly impacts on handling and steering control, so the driver will usually identify a problem and have it fixed.

With an over tight nut there is no evidence of a problem until things go wrong, and go wrong they can.

The first problem with over tightening a wheel nut is that the chances are they will all be over tightened, so on a wet and windy night when you get a puncture you can't get the wheel off and you have to wait for the AA or the RAC or whoever to come and sort a flat tyre. A repair most folks could do in less than the time it takes the fitter to arrive. That though is a minor problem.

The next issue is that when a nut tightens on a stud it can, if over tightened, stretch the stud. In itself not an issue, but the stretching of the stud weakens it. It is unlikely that it will weaken it below its breaking point, but repeated over tightening can do. The stud in the process work hardens and can shear. If one goes, so too might a second; that increases the likelihood of a third or fourth coming off. If you think that unlikely, then consider that trucks from time to time lose wheels from trailers when all the studs shear at the same time!

For those cars fitted with alloy wheels another difficulty arises. Alloy wheels are not quite as forgiving as steel wheels, and over tightening the wheel nuts can cause damage to the wheel centres, creating stress points that can lead to fracturing at worst, damaged wheel nut facings at best.

If your car uses wheel bolts rather than nuts, then you still have the same issues, plus the over tightening of the hardened bolts in the hub may strip the threads or even crack the hub.

Every tyre shop should have a reference chart to which they can refer for wheel torque settings. If the fitter runs the wheel nuts/bolts on with an air gun and hands you your car back, ask him to check the torque settings. However, remember that if the air wrench has set the torque higher than it should be, using a torque wrench will not identify that the nuts are over tight.

Torqueing Nuts - The Trade Side

The issue of the correct torque settings for wheel nuts raises its head from time to time. One popular motoring magazine suggested that a majority of tyre depots did not correctly torque wheel nuts and that this created, at best, a nuisance for drivers, at worst a safety issue.

To be fair torque setting is not just an issue for the tyre trade: it is an issue throughout the motor trade and is exacerbated by the increasing use of air wrenches for every nut and bolt task. The issue is less one of training, but rather one of monitoring. Companies may train their staff all they wish, but at the end of the training many staff go back to their depots and carry on doing it the same old way. We have all been sitting in on training sessions and said, or heard said, "That's all very well in theory, but in practice..."

Question?

How can the tyre trade improve its performance in this field, monitoring the effectiveness of the training, and ensuring that the lessons taught in the classroom are followed up in reality? That applies equally to jacking up cars, repairs, fitting, balancing as well as torque setting the wheel nuts.

It is worth noting that in the caravan sector many of the specialist service centres will mount wheels on the caravan and manually tighten the wheel nuts, but will not release the caravan to its owner until he/she has personally tightened the wheel nuts. Thus relieving the service centre of liability should the wheels then fall off!

Is there a need for industry backed performance monitoring?

Mystery shoppers are all well and good, but if the customer doesn't know that the quality of the work being done is inadequate, how can he tell? How can the mystery shopper tell? If a nut is over-torqued by the air wrench in the first place, checking with a torque wrench afterwards will only give a minimum reading. The wheel nut could be 10-15-20 Nm over tight, checking with a torque wrench will not readily show that.

Dave Smith, Chief Training Officer at Michelin's Stoke Training Centre agreed that it was his job to train to the highest standards in the classroom, but out in the field it becomes an operational management issue. Asked how checks could be run at depots he suggested that following the policy of one particular chain the fitter who mounted the wheels would set the torque and fit the wheels but the job had to be signed off by a senior technician or depot manager.

James Bailey handled our enquiry at Hi-Q and he agreed that monitoring was difficult but added, " Hi-Q has a national policy of checking torque settings but always recommend that the motorist checks the wheel nut torque setting after a few hundred miles."

On the truck-side Hi-Q use a Torque Right gauge to ensure that wheel nuts are tightened to the correct setting. It is something that could be looked at for the car market too.

ATS Euromaster, as one might expect, train staff to the highest standards, but once again when the staff leave the classroom how do the standards get monitored?

At the depots wheel nuts are run-on with an air wrench and the torque settings, taken from a wall chart guide, are set by torque wrench. It is policy at ATS Euromaster that the senior technician at the depot should check the torque setting of the wheel nuts on every vehicle before it leaves the depot.

However, in reality it may well be that this ideal is not always attained. There is though a further check in place. There are quarterly competency checks run by the depot managers on all staff in all areas of skill application. For truck fitters there is a specialist five day training course designed to ensure that they are fully competent in mounting tyres and wheels to commercial vehicles under all conditions.

National told Tyres Online, "National Tyres and Autocare has strict procedures in place to ensure that any work carried out, including tyre fitting, is performed to the highest standard. Any branches or individuals identified as not following these procedures could face disciplinary proceedings."

All the fast fit people we spoke to were adamant that they were doing their best to check settings. However, the one question that no-one could adequately answer was, if the settings are too tight, how can the supervisor be aware of this? Also, if the nuts have already been over-torqued by as much as 50 per cent the threads will already have been damaged and the studs stretched. Will the retailer then replace the studs and nuts free of charge? Will they offer redress for potential damage to alloy wheels?

In any event, how does the client know what the correct torque setting for the wheel nut should be? It isn't in any owner's Hand Book Tyres Online has seen. One suggestion is that the torque setting for the wheel nuts should be displayed on a sticker on the door pillar alongside the tyre pressures guide. Then again, would that not just be another piece of information for the motorist or the mechanic to ignore?

There is no denying that this is a tricky question. It is also a wider subject than just wheel nuts. If the tyre trade can find a workable monitoring system to ensure that the correct standards are being met then it may well be taking a lead for other automotive servicing sectors to follow.

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Friday, October 9, 2009

Perodua Viva Elite: a new look for the Viva











Perodua launched the new Perodua ViVA Elite today, aimed at offering the market a variant with a more stylish image compared to the original ViVA. It is an aesthetic modification in the style of the Myvi SE, and at the same time they’ve revamped the model line-up a little.

The ViVA was first introduced with 660cc, 850cc, 1,000cc and 1,000cc premium variants. Now it has restructured the model lineup, offering the 660 BX MT, 660 EX MT, 850 MT, 1.0 AT, 1.0 ELITE MT, 1.0 ELITE AT, and the 1.0 ELITE EZi. That’s three different variants for the new ViVA ELITE.



Externally, the ViVA Elite has its own front bumper with integrated foglamps, front grille and its own engine hood design. On the side you’ll see chrome door handles, side skirts, and 14 inch 12-spoke alloy wheels. On the back you’ll see a new rear bumper with a honeycomb grille design, and the 1.0 ELITE EZi model (note, this is different from the ELITE AT) gets an additional rear spoiler. The windows of the ViVA Elite also feature a UV protection coating that is said to reject 91% of UV rays.

On the inside you get a new 1-DIN head unit with MP3 and WMA support, an underside tray under the passenger seat, seat backpockets, a new seat fabric design, and fabric trim on the door panels. All ViVA ELITE models will get seat height adjusters for the driver’s seat, and electrically adjustable side mirrors. On the ELITE EZi, these side mirrors are also electrically retractable and have integrated turn signals.

Only the ViVA 1.0 ELITE EZi gets a full load of safety features including dual SRS airbags for the front, ABS brakes, EBD and Brake Assist. Power steering is also only available on the ELITE models. The other non-Elite models are left with just basic features such as reverse sensors on the 850 and 1.0 model, and a CD player on the 660 EX, 850 and 1.0 model. The following are the prices for the new Perodua ViVA range including the non-Elite models:

  • Perodua ViVA Elite M/T – RM37,900
  • Perodua ViVA Elite A/T – RM40,900
  • Perodua ViVA Elite EZi – RM44,900
  • Perodua ViVA 1.0 AT – RM36,900
  • Perodua ViVA 850 MT – RM32,900
  • Perodua ViVA 660 EX MT – RM28,900
  • Perodua ViVA 660 BX MT – RM25,300



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Thursday, October 8, 2009

Get Nice and Unique Car Vehicle Registration Plate Number

PLATE-number

The number selection is done by bidding.

Some will takes this seriously and willing to pay for high price in order to get the desired plate number.

The favorite and expensive number is the single digit number especially like6, 8 and 9 as it have an auspicious meanings.

Single digit number also known as Golden Number and it can fetch as high as RM100,000!

Other ‘high price numbers’ like 11, 22, 33, 44, 88, 99, 777 and 6666 can go as high as RM8,000 to RM10,000!

Normally business tycoon willing to bid the number no matter how high is it. It is also reported one owner paid RM42,000 after successfully bidding for PJF 1 in Penang.

Latest Car Registration Number as at Sat 3rd Oct 2009 (Available for Bidding)

PerakAGX4967
SelangorBKN370
PahangCCM3239
KelantanDBN379
JohorJLU6156
KedahKCP968
LangkawiKV7684C
LabuanLD1607
MelakaMBU7403
N SembilanNCG4434
Pulau PinangPJJ985
KuchingQAR3770
Sri AmanQBA6422
K SamarahanQCB9876
LimbangQLA3158
MiriQMP615
KapitQP4961
SarikeiQRE8831
SibuQSS1065
BintuluQTG3036
PerlisRH8701
Kota KinabaluSAA7644Y
BeaufortSB9108A
Lahad DatuSD5281E
KudatSK8361
SandakanSS3764M
TawauST7849M
KeningauSU1421B
TerengganuTAW4827
Kuala LumpurWTC2511

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